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A Hall of Fame Worthy Bistro Red

A Hall of Fame Worthy Bistro Red

by Tom Wolf by Tom Wolf

2024 Côtes-du-Rhône “Poignée de Raisins”

2024 Côtes-du-Rhône “Poignée de Raisins”

Domaine Gramenon   

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Domaine Gramenon    France   |  Southern Rhône   |  Côtes-du-Rhône

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If there were a Hall of Fame for for French bistro reds, Domaine Gramenon’s Poignée de Raisins would be a no-brainer first-ballot inductee. The southern France counterpart to our favorite Morgons, this vibrant and classy cuvée exemplifies that ideal intersection between progressive farming, meticulous “natural” winemaking, and honest expression of its unique Rhône terroirs.
     Michèle Aubéry and her son Maxime François Laurent dedicate the “Fistful of Grapes” to younger-vine Grenache and age it in concrete in order to retain as much of the grape’s fresh fruit character as possible. Of course, it’s Grenache grown in galets roulés under the southern sun, so there’s plenty of earth, garrigue, and grip, too, but this is no doubt Gramenon’s most “bistro red” bottling.
      If you enjoy the Poignée de Raisins, do yourself a favor and delve into Maxime and Michèle’s other Côtes-du-Rhônes, all of which blend exuberance and complexity and stand out as some of southern France’s freshest and most soulful reds.

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Inspiring Thirst

I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.

Inspiring Thirst, page 171

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