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A Rhône Master’s Take on Crozes-Hermitage

A Rhône Master’s Take on Crozes-Hermitage

by Tom Wolf by Tom Wolf

2023 Crozes Hermitage “Tiercerolles”

2023 Crozes Hermitage “Tiercerolles”

Barruol / Lynch   

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Barruol / Lynch    France   |  Northern Rhône   |  Crozes Hermitage

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In his remarkably elegant Crozes-Hermitage, made of 100% Syrah, Louis Barruol embodies the truism that sometimes those who are most passionate about a place and its traditions are its outsiders. Louis is a native of the southern Rhône Valley, but tasting his exquisite Crozes, you might reasonably wonder if the northern part of the valley, where Syrah is king, is his spiritual homeland.
      Sure, he blends a little Syrah into his famous Gigondas down south, but vinifying the grape on its own—as is the norm in appellations like Crozes-Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie, and Cornas—requires an entirely different skill set and taste than blending it with other grapes like Grenache and Cinsault. Louis embraces the highly unusual challenge of reaching outside his home region to make a handful of northern Rhône cuvées quite simply because he adores the north’s most classic examples he grew up drinking, and he pays his respect to them through his collaborations with Kermit via the Barruol/Lynch label.
      In this cuvée, Louis blends Syrah from half a dozen of Crozes-Hermitage’s crème de la crème lieux-dits. All it takes is one sip to realize he has produced a masterful and lithe red wine that swims gracefully across your palate with notes of dark fruit, herbs, and a touch of brine. If you love northern Rhône Syrah, don’t miss this one.

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Sampling wine out of the barrel.

When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:

1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.

Inspiring Thirst, page 174

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