Jean-Claude Marsanne et Filles
by Jane Augustine
When colleagues and I visited Domaine Marsanne one Saturday in June 2023, we wondered if our appointment hadn’t slipped the family’s mind. There wasn’t a soul in sight to greet us, but after nosing around a bit we spotted Madame Marsanne, Jean-Claude’s mother, sitting discreetly under the shade of a giant linden tree. She was separating the blossoms from the branches to dry for herbal tea. She told us that her granddaughter Clémence, who works alongside Jean-Claude, was eagerly expecting us but with the heat what it was, and the vineyards growing so fast, she was still up in the hills racing to canopy the vines. She’d be down shortly to host us.
My first impression of Domaine Marsanne—multiple generations putting in the time it takes to make a superior product, whether that’s fastening vineyard branches on a weekend or drying tea leaves—wasn’t wrong. It set the tone for everything I’d come to discover about Marsanne’s tendency for evocative and character-driven wines, and offered insight into the traditional vignerons behind them. Perhaps I’m biased about the 2023 vintage, having glimpsed the extra effort that went into making it great, but it’s one of my favorites yet.
2023 Ardèche Syrah “Syrah Mauve”
France | Northern Rhône
This cuvée comes from two granite lieux-dits from the hills above the Rhône, the Collines Rhodaniennes. It tastes of pure Syrah, like a baby Saint-Joseph, and is great for any time you want an unmistakable taste of the region and its smoky, peppery reds.
2023 Saint-Joseph Blanc
France | Northern Rhône
This blanc is befittingly made from only Marsanne, with subtle, but not shy notes of stony peach, orange blossom, and pear. I love it alongside Vietnamese food, hard cheeses, or baked fish in a sauce au beurre with herbs.
2023 Saint-Joseph Rouge
France | Northern Rhône
There is no shortage of exceptional Saint-Joseph rouges in our portfolio: Those from Faury, Gonon, and Monier come to mind. Marsanne’s joins the ranks with its velvety texture, vibrancy, and layers of complexity. One of its lieux-dits, “Paradis,” has a proportion of hundred-year-old vines rooted to a slope so stony and vertical, I was too dizzy to set foot on it. Clémence, with the confidence of a seasoned vigneronne, gracefully led the charge.