Loire Reds
by Anthony Lynch
2024 Bourgueil “Trinch!”
France | Loire
It makes sense when you taste this bottle that the Bretons are famous for their pioneering role in natural wine. You might point to their mastery of organic farming and low-intervention winemaking methods—pillars of the movement—or their cuvées’ universal appeal, which goes in the face of the wine world’s sometimes elitist tendencies. But at the core of things, their cuvée Trinch! simply tastes like a product of nature: it captures the spirit of crushed Cabernet Franc grapes in their purest form, a jolly, slightly hazy nectar of brambles and peppercorn that has made its way into bottle for the sole purpose of our enjoyment.
2022 Chinon “Le Domaine”
France | Loire
Classic Chinon such as Baudry’s “Domaine” exudes an autumnal vibe that makes it an excellent choice for serving this time of year. Its balance of dark forest berries, rain-soaked earth, and gravelly tannins with a gentle bite make a pristine match for seasonal staples like game meats and wild mushrooms. It’s a textbook Chinon from one of the great traditionalist domaines, and you’ll struggle to find a red as authentic and perfectly suited to your fall table.
2022 Saumur-Champigny “Les Mémoires”
France | Loire
Planted in 1904, this Cabernet Franc parcel has seen some things in its lifetime—in fact, the cuvée’s name alludes to the century of memories the vines have accumulated. It’s safe to say they are living out their old age in style, routinely pampered by biodynamic treatments from Thierry Germain and his devoted team. On a visit last May, the vines were positively beaming, the result of a unique farming philosophy that places equal importance on the health of the soil, the plant, and the people tasked with cultivating it. This synergy of course works in favor of the resulting wine, whose harmony from start to finish is a trademark of the Germain lineup. Deep and voluptuous with hints of graphite and tobacco, it finishes on a salty, salivating note that recalls the flinty vineyard soil.