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2023 Chinon “Les Petites Roches”
Charles Joguet
Here’s an appetizing red for the “one glass a night” set.
Night One: floral aromatics and tart red fruit—perfect with an oozy croque monsieur.
Night Two: distinctly rounder and with more body. The fruit is earthier—steak frites?
Night Three: soft and supple. Is that a mocha note? No accompaniment needed.
—Dustin Soiseth
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2023 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Cabernet Franc |
| Appellation: | Chinon |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | Charles Joguet |
| Vineyard: | Planted in 1930 to 1940, 2.22 ha |
| Soil: | White Limestone, Clay |
| Aging: | Prolonged aging in 1-3 year-old barrels for 12-15 months |
| Farming: | Organic (certified) |
| Alcohol: | 13.5% |
More from this Producer or Region
2021 Chinon “Les Varennes du Grand Clos”
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With floral aromas and fine-grained tannins, it already showcases its charms.
2020 Chinon “Les Varennes du Grand Clos”
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2020 Chinon “Clos du Chêne Vert”
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Chinons from Joguet are known for their firm minerality, but this one is quite charming as well, with plummy black fruit, myrtle, and notes of warm licorice.
2016 Chinon “Les Varennes du Grand Clos” MAGNUM
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Joguet’s Varennes du Grand Clos has fine-grained tannins that seem to melt into the richness of a marbled steak in an almost magical way.
2023 Vouvray “Pierres Rousses”
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This wine is deep and textural, with serious presence on the palate and a dry, flinty finish.
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It’s a textbook Chinon, and you’ll struggle to find a red as authentic and perfectly suited to your fall table.
2021 Chinon “Clos de la Dioterie”
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Age-worthy red from one of Chinon’s top sites, by a storied domaine.
2021 Chinon “Le Clos Guillot”
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Even though all of the wines hail from Chinon, the soil, elevation, and exposition all combine to make Le Clos Guillot their cuvée with the most finesse.
About The Producer
Charles Joguet
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
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2022 Bourgueil “Cuvée Alouettes”
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2024 Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu sur lie “La Nöe”
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2021 Saumur Champigny “La Marginale”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2024 Muscadet “Le Clos de la Butte”
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2021 Vin de France Blanc “Chenin Centenaire”
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2024 Vin de France Brut Nature “Elle est pas bulle la vie?”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2020 Vin de France Blanche
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2016 Chinon “Les Varennes du Grand Clos” MAGNUM
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Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch