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2021 Languedoc Montpeyroux Rouge “Les Cocalières”
Domaine d’Aupilhac
You know how having information ahead of time can color your perception? That did not happen here. I opened this bottle with my partner, who said, “Basalt!” right away. Then he added, “There’s a freshness of swirling water, like a natural spring.” Unlike yours truly, he had no idea that the vineyard Les Cocalières occupies a site of basalt and limestone that formerly housed an ancient lake! In addition to this impressive translation of its terroir, the bottle boasts dense, supple fruit with a signature black olive note from Syrah, the variety that makes up the majority of its blend. I added my own impressions as I continued to taste: waterfall mist / dark, hint of smoke / stones in the rain…all while realizing the wine—and maybe my partner—had just bested me at my own job.
—Allyson Noman
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2021 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | 40% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre |
| Appellation: | Languedoc Montpeyroux |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Languedoc-Roussillon |
| Producer: | Domaine d’Aupilhac |
| Winemaker: | Sylvain Fadat |
| Vineyard: | Planted in 1999-2002 |
| Soil: | Limestone, Basalt |
| Aging: | Ages in cuves and barrels for 15 months |
| Farming: | Organic (certified) |
| Alcohol: | 13% |
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About The Producer
Domaine d’Aupilhac
Three generations of Fadats have farmed the lieu-dit known as Aupilhac, in the village of Montpeyroux, across the river Hérault from Daumas Gassac and Grange des Pères. While the Fadats have farmed this land since the 19th century, it wasn’t until 1989 that the current member of the family, Sylvain, finally registered the domaine as a vigneron indépendant. Aupilhac sits at a high altitude, nestled below the ruins of the village’s château, at almost 1200 feet above sea level on terraced land. The soils are rich in prehistoric oyster fossils, which lend incredible length and minerality to the wines. In Sylvain’s words, “We believe that work in the vineyards has far more influence on a wine's quality than what we do in the cellar.”
About The Region
Languedoc-Roussillon
Ask wine drinkers around the world, and the word “Languedoc” is sure to elicit mixed reactions. On the one hand, the region is still strongly tied to its past as a producer of cheap, insipid bulk wine in the eyes of many consumers. On the other hand, it is the source of countless great values providing affordable everyday pleasure, with an increasing number of higher-end wines capable of rivaling the best from other parts of France.
While there’s no denying the Languedoc’s checkered history, the last two decades have seen a noticeable shift to fine wine, with an emphasis on terroir. Ambitious growers have sought out vineyard sites with poor, well draining soils in hilly zones, curbed back on irrigation and the use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, and looked to balance traditional production methods with technological advancements to craft wines with elegance, balance, and a clear sense of place. Today, the overall quality and variety of wines being made in the Languedoc is as high as ever.
Shaped like a crescent hugging the Mediterranean coast, the region boasts an enormous variety of soil types and microclimates depending on elevation, exposition, and relative distance from the coastline and the cooler foothills farther inland. While the warm Mediterranean climate is conducive to the production of reds, there are world-class whites and rosés to be found as well, along with stunning dessert wines revered by connoisseurs for centuries.
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Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch