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From the Archives: The Apéro File
From the Archives: The Apéro File
2025 Languedoc Rosé “Gris de Gris”
2025 Languedoc Rosé “Gris de Gris”
Bruno Laboucarié
Domaine de Fontsainte France | Languedoc-Roussillon | Languedoc
“By actions, not words, Richard Olney taught me the virtues of the daily apéro, which is French slang for an aperitif. My Webster’s defines aperitif as “an alcoholic beverage, especially wine, taken before meals to stimulate the appetite.” Taken? Well, that’s not why I “take” aperitifs.
And there is a French definition from 1750: “qui ouvre les pores, les catiaux, les vaisseau.” Quite physical, that one, the apéro serving to open one’s pores, blood vessels, and assorted other bodily systems. Serving to open… an opener, that’s the apéritif. Aperture is from the same root. An apéritif opens the evening, the meal, the festivities, and it might as well also open up oneself.
When I used to drive up the steep, narrow driveway to Richard’s place in Provence, we would embrace in the French style, then sit down under his arbor of grape vines for an aperitif. As the sun sank lower and lower, a bowl of black olives would appear, slices of saucisson, and iced radishes with butter and salt. The wine flowed, as did the conversation.
Often the aperitif was a cheap little dry white or rosé, always well chosen. Richard referred to them as mouth rinse. What a wonderfully unsnobby perspective! He ordered Fontsainte’s Gris de Gris several cases at a time.”
After Beaujolais Nouveau, Fontsainte’s Gris de Gris rosé is the first wine of each new vintage to arrive in the shop. Even after so many years, the anticipation is just as high to uncork that first bottle, and the inaugural sip never disappoints. The 2025 edition is as irresistible as ever, bursting with cool citrus and wild strawberry over a delicate tingle of acidity and mouthwatering salty note. Does rosé get any better than this? I lean toward no, but will require several more bottles to reach a proper conclusion.
Bruno Laboucarié
| Wine Type: | Rosé |
| Vintage: | 2025 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | 90% Grenache Gris, 5% Carignan, 5% Mourvèdre |
| Appellation: | Languedoc |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Languedoc-Roussillon |
| Producer: | Domaine de Fontsainte |
| Winemaker: | Bruno Laboucarié |
| Vineyard: | 46.2 ha |
| Soil: | Silica, clay, limestone (gravelly with large galets or rounded stones) |
| Aging: | 4-6 months in stainless steel tanks |
| Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
| Alcohol: | 12% |
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About The Producer
Domaine de Fontsainte
About The Region
Languedoc-Roussillon
Ask wine drinkers around the world, and the word “Languedoc” is sure to elicit mixed reactions. On the one hand, the region is still strongly tied to its past as a producer of cheap, insipid bulk wine in the eyes of many consumers. On the other hand, it is the source of countless great values providing affordable everyday pleasure, with an increasing number of higher-end wines capable of rivaling the best from other parts of France.
While there’s no denying the Languedoc’s checkered history, the last two decades have seen a noticeable shift to fine wine, with an emphasis on terroir. Ambitious growers have sought out vineyard sites with poor, well draining soils in hilly zones, curbed back on irrigation and the use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, and looked to balance traditional production methods with technological advancements to craft wines with elegance, balance, and a clear sense of place. Today, the overall quality and variety of wines being made in the Languedoc is as high as ever.
Shaped like a crescent hugging the Mediterranean coast, the region boasts an enormous variety of soil types and microclimates depending on elevation, exposition, and relative distance from the coastline and the cooler foothills farther inland. While the warm Mediterranean climate is conducive to the production of reds, there are world-class whites and rosés to be found as well, along with stunning dessert wines revered by connoisseurs for centuries.
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Vintage Chart Mentality
Vintage Chart Mentality
Trust the great winemakers, trust the great vineyards. Your wine merchant might even be trustworthy. In the long run, that vintage strip may be the least important guide to quality on your bottle of wine.—Kermit Lynch