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An Everyday White Wine from Italy’s Adriatic Coast

An Everyday White Wine from Italy’s Adriatic Coast

by Tom Wolf by Tom Wolf

A Featured Selection from the Fruits de Mer Collection A Featured Selection from the Fruits de Mer Collection

2024 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi

2024 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi

Colleleva   

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Colleleva    Italy   |  Le Marche   |  Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi

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When we’re traveling the wine route across France and Italy in search of the best bottles, the most challenging discoveries are undoubtedly great whites and reds under $20. These are the rarest gems, often hidden in lesser-known regions, so when we stumbled onto this light and lively Colleleva’s Verdicchio over a decade ago, it was a thrilling revelation. Believe it or not, this bianco has only gotten better since then.
      Translating roughly to “where the hills rise,” Colleleva lies about halfway between the Apennine Mountains and the coastline of the Adriatic Sea in the region of Le Marche. Eastern sun exposure and the cooling winds blowing in from the Adriatic give Verdicchio its ideal microclimate, yielding both perfect ripeness and mouthwatering acidity. Colleleva’s Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi evokes a little bit of that sea breeze along with faint notes of lime and green apple. Much like Muscadet, it’s dreamy alongside ceviche, grilled shrimp, or simple aperitivo snacks. Or just enjoy a glass while you cook.

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More from this Producer or Region

About The Region

Le Marche

map of Le Marche

Le Marche’s reputation as a producer of fine wine is relatively recent, as the region is very much off the beaten path for tourists and tasters alike. And yet, early Etrsucan and Roman civilizations grew grapes here, a tradition that persists and continues to gain momentum in this undulating land where the Apennines descend to the Adriatic.

In between the warm coastline and the cool, rugged mountainous border with Umbria lies a landscape of calcareous rolling hills that provide ideal conditions for viticulture. The zingy, green-tinged, citrus- and pine-scented Verdicchio is king here, producing delightfully crisp whites that perfectly complement the fresh fish and seafood stews of the Adriatic, in addition to the pork-based dishes that are staples inland. Around the towns of Jesi and Matelica, the grape takes on an additional dimension and is even capable of significant aging under the right conditions.

While our involvement in the region is recent, the two producers we represent demonstrate that Le Marche is capable of producing whites of serious interest, which often come at great value.

More from Le Marche or Italy

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Kermit inspecting wine barrels

For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.

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