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2023 Rosso Piceno
CollelevaI’m willing to bet that most people have never tasted a Rosso Piceno: this Italian red comes from a region most have never heard of (Le Marche) and its starring grape variety, Montepulciano, is often conflated with a town in Tuscany by the same name—coincidentally home to its own wine appellation featuring not Montepulciano but Sangiovese, which plays a supporting role in our Rosso Piceno. Is that all confusing enough?
Let’s take a step back. Rosso Piceno does not fancy itself as one of Italy’s greatest or grandest wines. It serves a purpose similar to Piedmont’s Dolcetto, or France’s Côtes du Rhône: wines you can uncork—or in this case, unscrew—on a whim, without worrying about the company, the pairing, or the planetary alignment. Grown along the Adriatic coast of central Italy, it combines the deep color and wild berry fruit of Montepulciano with the brightness and earthy grip of Sangiovese. Its dark fruit is boldly mouth-filling, yet smooth and juicy, even crunchy when served with a slight chill, which I recommend. With only its second release, the Colleleva Rosso Piceno has already joined the ranks of the shop’s top pizza and BBQ bottles. Unscrew responsibly!
—Anthony Lynch
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2023 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Montepulciano and Sangiovese |
Appellation: | Rosso Piceno |
Country: | Italy |
Region: | Le Marche |
Producer: | Colleleva |
Soil: | Clay |
Aging: | Fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks |
Farming: | Sustainable |
Alcohol: | 13.5% |
More from this Producer or Region
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2020 Marche Rosso “Bastian Contrario”
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This red, made from the local Montepulciano grape, is aged in tank and bottle to refine its pleasantly rustic personality.
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A luscious Verdicchio with layered textures that white Burgundy lovers chase after.
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Lucky for us, vignerons in the 1980s salvaged this gem of a variety; one sip feels like stepping into technicolor.
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About The Producer
Colleleva
The vineyards of Colleleva (Colle “hill”, and si leva, “rises”) lie on the heights of the Marche: about halfway between the Apennine mountains and the coastline of the Adriatic Sea. The combination of eastern sun exposure and the cooling winds from the Adriatic provide an optimal microclimate for balancing ripeness with fresh acidity in the grapes. Verdicchio, also known as Trebbiano di Soave, has been cultivated in the Marche for many centuries. It is capable of making vibrantly fresh and crisp white wines that are a wonderful accompaniment to seafood. The Riserva bottlings can age gracefully. From Colleleva we have a wine in the former camp. During a tasting trip in the Marche, their stainless steel tank vinified Verdicchio was one of the stars among many, many wines tasted. The perfume is entrancing—at once fresh and rounded, and typical of the grape. There is absolutely no pretension.
About The Region
Le Marche
Le Marche’s reputation as a producer of fine wine is relatively recent, as the region is very much off the beaten path for tourists and tasters alike. And yet, early Etrsucan and Roman civilizations grew grapes here, a tradition that persists and continues to gain momentum in this undulating land where the Apennines descend to the Adriatic.
In between the warm coastline and the cool, rugged mountainous border with Umbria lies a landscape of calcareous rolling hills that provide ideal conditions for viticulture. The zingy, green-tinged, citrus- and pine-scented Verdicchio is king here, producing delightfully crisp whites that perfectly complement the fresh fish and seafood stews of the Adriatic, in addition to the pork-based dishes that are staples inland. Around the towns of Jesi and Matelica, the grape takes on an additional dimension and is even capable of significant aging under the right conditions.
While our involvement in the region is recent, the two producers we represent demonstrate that Le Marche is capable of producing whites of serious interest, which often come at great value.
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2022 Lumassina
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2023 Lacrima di Morro d’Alba
Colleleva Italy | Le Marche
2022 Olio Extravergine di Oliva Biologica
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2022 Langhe Nebbiolo
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2023 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
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2021 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva “Passolento”
La Marca di San Michele Italy | Le Marche
2022 Südtirol Eisacktaler Sylvaner
Manni Nössing Italy | Alto Adige
2020 Valli Ossolane Nebbiolo Superiore “Prünent Diecibrente”
Cantine Garrone Italy | Piedmont
2020 Veneto Garganega “Sera”
Vignato Davide Italy | Veneto
2019 Chianti Classico Riserva
Podere Campriano Italy | Tuscany
2020 Marche Rosso “Bastian Contrario”
La Marca di San Michele Italy | Le Marche
2022 Lumassina
Punta Crena Italy | Liguria
2023 Lacrima di Morro d’Alba
Colleleva Italy | Le Marche
2022 Olio Extravergine di Oliva Biologica
Grottafumata Italy | Sicily
2022 Langhe Nebbiolo
Cantine Elvio Tintero Italy | Piedmont
2023 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
Colleleva Italy | Le Marche
Spumante Dosaggio Zero Col Fondo “Numerocinque”
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Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch