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2022 Chinon “Les Grézeaux”
Bernard BaudryIf you could pull back the topsoil of Chinon and view the land from above, you would get a beautiful mosaic of white, tan, and many shades of gold, taupe, gray, and brown. Few appellations in France have such a variegated terroir, made up of clay, yellow and white limestone, sand, and gravel. The Baudrys cultivate Cabernet Franc in all of these soil types and bottle several single-vineyard cuvées, ending up with an astonishing variety of expressions from this one grape. Les Grézeaux comes from their oldest vines—more than sixty years old—planted in gravelly alluvial soil near the Vienne River, which yield a simultaneously concentrated and silky rouge that is very much ready to drink today but will age beautifully over at least the next ten to fifteen years. With perfectly integrated tannins and notes of blackberries, forest floor, and stones, Les Grézeaux offers an ideal match for a lentil and mushroom shepherd’s pie or a simple roast chicken.
—Tom Wolf
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2022 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Cabernet Franc |
Appellation: | Chinon |
Country: | France |
Region: | Loire |
Producer: | Bernard Baudry |
Winemaker: | Matthieu & Bernard Baudry |
Vineyard: | 65 years, 3 ha |
Soil: | Gravel |
Aging: | Aged for twelve months in barrel and are not fined or filtered |
Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
Alcohol: | 13% |
More from this Producer or Region
2020 Chinon “La Croix Boissée”
France | Loire
This is the grandest bottling of Cabernet Franc from one of Chinon’s most outstanding producers.
2021 Chinon
France | Loire
It is fresh and buoyant enough for casual fare yet has the stuffing to accompany heartier dishes, while its vivid raspberry fruit makes it extremely approachable today, notwithstanding its medium-term aging potential.
2023 Jasnières
France | Loire
Racy, slightly honeyed, exotically perfumed, and loaded with minerality, this wine is an excellent representation of how Chenin reacts to the local conditions.
2020 Saumur Champigny “Clos de l’Échelier”
France | Loire
Fine, with bright acid, sleek silkiness, and great length, it is the most elegant of all of Thierry’s red wines.
2023 Grolleau “Franc de Pied”
France | Loire
Brambly berries and lifted floral notes combine with an earthy coolness and touch of spice in this red whose low alcohol level makes it even easier to fervently slurp down.
2022 Chinon Blanc
France | Loire
A rare Chenin Blanc from the land of Cabernet Franc. Ultra fresh and brimming with citrus blossom and orchard fruit notes, it has a saline, mineral finish that leaves my palate simultaneously satisfied and begging for more. Try it with fresh trout, grilled whole topped with chimichurri or smoked and tossed into a Niçoise salad.
2021 Chinon “Le Clos Guillot”
France | Loire
Even though all of the wines hail from Chinon, the soil, elevation, and exposition all combine to make Le Clos Guillot their cuvée with the most finesse.
2022 Sancerre Rouge
France | Loire
Pure, classy fruit sing tenor without any interference from the earthy bass that often makes itself heard in Bourgogne rouge.
2023 Chinon “Les Granges”
France | Loire
Les Granges is the Baudry cuvée to drink in its youth, while the perfume of rose petals and brambly berries is at its most vivid and vibrant.
2022 Chinon Rosé
France | Loire
Matthieu Baudry captures both youthful fruit and energizing mineral textures with this rosé.
About The Producer
Bernard Baudry
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmderidgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
More from Loire or France
2023 Sancerre
Domaine Roger Neveu France | Loire
2023 Sancerre HALF BOTTLE
Hippolyte Reverdy France | Loire
2020 Saumur Champigny “Clos de l’Échelier”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Gorges”
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire
2023 Menetou-Salon Blanc “Le Prieuré”
Prieuré de Saint Céols France | Loire
2022 Sancerre “Les Cris”
Daniel Chotard France | Loire
2020 Sancerre “Hameau de Reigny”
Daniel Chotard France | Loire
2023 Vouvray “Les Fondraux”
Champalou France | Loire
2020 Chinon “Les Varennes du Grand Clos”
Charles Joguet France | Loire
2023 Saumur Champigny “Cuvée Domaine”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2022 Chinon Rosé
Charles Joguet France | Loire
2022 Saumur Champigny “La Foulée”
Domaine des Roches Neuves France | Loire
2023 Sancerre
Domaine Roger Neveu France | Loire
2023 Sancerre HALF BOTTLE
Hippolyte Reverdy France | Loire
2020 Saumur Champigny “Clos de l’Échelier”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Gorges”
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire
2023 Menetou-Salon Blanc “Le Prieuré”
Prieuré de Saint Céols France | Loire
2022 Sancerre “Les Cris”
Daniel Chotard France | Loire
2020 Sancerre “Hameau de Reigny”
Daniel Chotard France | Loire
2023 Vouvray “Les Fondraux”
Champalou France | Loire
2020 Chinon “Les Varennes du Grand Clos”
Charles Joguet France | Loire
2023 Saumur Champigny “Cuvée Domaine”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2022 Chinon Rosé
Charles Joguet France | Loire
2022 Saumur Champigny “La Foulée”
Domaine des Roches Neuves France | Loire
Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch