Stunning notes of ripe plum and vanilla open up into bright cherry in this truly singular Syrah, from Alsace, of all places.

Félix Meyer’s old-vine Pinot Blanc from the slopes of Katzenthal, in Alsace, has long overdelivered in the role of the proverbial “crisp white” for which we long.

This Riesling “Katz,” as we call it, is a beautifully linear and chiseled style of Riesling, fresh and pure.

This is a rich, ample, seductive Pinot with notes of tea leaves, strawberries, and blackberries.

A grainy texture and a lightness on its feet that his other more powerful and structured Pinots grown in limestone do not possess.

You’ll detect a steely quality on the finish, and the slightest hint of the petrol often associated with Riesling. Delicious!

Meyer-Fonné’s 2022 has a floral, perfumed nose—perhaps from a splash of Muscat?—and a soft mid-palate with green apple and pear—surely a sign of Pinot Blanc in there.

That grapes can be cajoled and fashioned to make such a liquid is miraculous. This aroma is beyond belief.

If you don’t recognize Félix Meyer’s touch from the rich aromas of lychee, candied ginger, and rose petals, you will by the time you finish your first glass.

From the exceedingly fine and elegant nose to the creamy and lacy texture, the overall balance and touch, and its hint of salty freshness, this wine shows how understated, finessed, and downright glorious dry Pinot Gris can be in Alsace.