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Beautiful Bandol from A Quintessentially Provençal Vigneron
Beautiful Bandol from A Quintessentially Provençal Vigneron
by Tom Wolf by Tom Wolf
2021 Bandol Rouge
2021 Bandol Rouge
Alain Pascal
Alain Pascal’s vines
Alain Pascal and his hunting dogs
Domaine du Gros ’Noré France | Provence | Bandol
After Domaine Tempier, Gros ’Noré represents our second-oldest relationship in Bandol, going back nearly thirty years to when Kermit came across the burly former boxer who had stopped selling his prized grapes to big-name Provençal estates and begun bottling his own wine. It didn’t take long for the jovial and endlessly generous Alain Pascal to become one of the great producers of the region, fashioning reds that remarkably mirror his personality and stature in so many ways. (He also became an inspiration for the character Poupon in Kermit’s new novel At Poupon’s Table.)
Alain’s vineyards are situated along the rolling hillsides around La Cadière d’Azur, where the hot summer sun and clay soils impart impressive power to his grapes. Alain’s blend features eighty percent Mourvèdre—above the appellation minimum of fifty percent—a choice that results in additional concentration and brawn in his soulful Bandol. The power of Alain’s rouge is always balanced by plenty of freshness and finesse, making it an outstanding bottle to pair with a wide range of grilled and braised meats. The flavors of dark fruit, garrigue, and smoke sing beautifully alongside a duck breast with tapenade or roast lamb for a sublime fall feast.
Alain Pascal
Alain Pascal’s vines
Alain Pascal and his hunting dogs
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2021 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | 80% Mourvèdre, 15% Grenache, 5% Cinsault |
| Appellation: | Bandol |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Provence |
| Producer: | Domaine du Gros ‘Noré |
| Winemaker: | Alain Pascal |
| Vineyard: | 30 years average, 14 ha |
| Soil: | Clay |
| Farming: | Organic (certified) |
| Alcohol: | 14.5% |
More from this Producer or Region
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About The Producer
Domaine du Gros ‘Noré
Former boxer and avid hunter Alain Pascal is a gentle giant, whose physique matches both his spirit and his wine. He farms sixteen hectares of vineyards on the rolling hillsides around La Cadière d’Azur in Bandol, the appellation regarded as the grand cru of Provence. The vineyards are composed of both clay and limestone, imparting a pronounced structure of earthy, splintered rock. This microclimate near the Mediterranean brings warm weather and full sun, tempered by the persistent Mistral. Alain leaves his grapes to mature fully on the vine, lending great intensity to the fruit. Where appellation law demands that each blend includes at least 50 percent Mourvèdre, Alain uses 80 percent—a choice that gives more power and concentration to the final assemblage. Do not be fooled by the strength and boldness of the Gros ’Noré Bandol, though; underneath a big exterior is a wine of character, depth, complexity, soul, and finesse.
About The Region
Provence
There is perhaps no region more closely aligned with the history of Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant than Provence. While Kermit began his career as a Burgundy specialist, he soon fell in love with Provence and its wines, notably the legendary Bandols of Domaine Tempier, which he began importing in 1977. He later began living in the area part-time, returning frequently between tasting trips, and today he spends most of his time at his home just outside of Bandol.
Provence is thought to be France’s most ancient wine region, established when Greek settlers landed in the modern-day port city of Marseille in the 6th century BC. The conditions here are ideal for cultivation of the grapevine, with a hot, dry climate and a prevalence of poor, rocky soils, primarily limestone-based, suitable for vines and not much else. The ever-present southern sunshine as well as the mistral, a cold, drying wind from the northwest that helps keep the vines free of disease, are crucial elements of Provençal terroir. Wild herbs from the pervasive scrubland, called garrigue, and cooling saline breezes from the Mediterranean also contribute to the quality and character of wines in all three colors.
Provence is well known for its rosés, but red wines have always held importance here. The very best, such as those from Bandol, possess great depth and a capacity for long-term aging. The white wines, notably those of Cassis, offer weight balanced by a maritime freshness, making them ideal pairings for the local seafood. Mourvèdre reigns king for red grapes, supported mainly by Grenache and Cinsault, while Clairette, Marsanne, Rolle, and Ugni Blanc are the region’s principal white grapes.
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Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch